This is an account of my cycling trip across Canada in 2003. What follows are brief updates (complete with grammatical disasters) that either I or Terri made while I was on the road. Eventually, I will have my complete journals, photographs, maps, and more located here.

For those of you who did not already know, I am starting my cross Canada cycling trip today. If interested, you can follow my adventure here. I hope to provide updates at least once a week. I will likely not have time to reply to email, but I will check for messages when the opportunity arises. -- Terri here. Hopefully Shayne won't mind me posting something he didn't request...But he got out of Toronto OK, I just saw him off at the station.

Shayne called this morning, he made it to Vancouver. Train was behind schedule for most of the trip, but they made up the time and arrived a bit early. During the trip he saw an elk and some kind of unidentified giant skeleton. There were moose and bears as well that he did not see.

Shayne left a message at 2:15 (his time). He was climbing Malahat Mt. between Victoria and Naniamo. He had a good time visiting with Christine and her friend and was on the road by 10am. Partly cloudy, nice weather.

Thursday morning: 5K south of Duncan. While leaving the message he was watching a bald eagle over the highway. He had also seen a heron and there were a lot of slugs on the highway. The climb up the Malahat was 352 meters/1150 feet. He decided against going on to Duncan yesterdy and stayed at a Provincial park. It rained over night, but not at all Wednesday and rained again as he left in the morning. It is flat and down until Nanaimo. Going for Whiterock for this evening. Later in the day: Shayne missed the ferry he had hoped to catch at around noon. He needed to stop and eat some lunch and that put him off schedule. The next ferry goes out at 3:15. It has been raining on and off, overcast.

Shayne called today from a camp ground in Hope. The previous night he managed to camp on someone's front lawn with no problems. And when he woke up there was a bag full of goodies waiting for him outside the tent (chips, chocolate bars, granola bars, fruit etc.) He is taking tomorrow off, and Monday he will start the first mountain climb of 700 meters. The next one is 500 more to summit at 1300 meters. Then he will stop at another campground. Tuesday he will climb another 500 meters and then it is downhill into Princeton. He will Camp east of Princeton, abd by Wednesday he expects to be in Osoyoos. He had a great day of riding today but now that he has stopped there is heavy wind.

Shayne called me at work yesterday afternoon as he was preparing to stop for lunch. He had finished the first mountain climb. At the finish, he had a nice 20km coast downhill into town. At the previous campsite there were no bears, just lots of small woodland creatures (chipmunks etc.).

There's free internet at the visitor centre here in Osoyoos so this is my first chance to post something myself. It is HOT here! I'll be going swimming this afternoon. I had a minor gear problem yesterday, fixed it as best I could myself, and managed to have a guy (who actually does RV repairs) in town tune it into mint condition. Seven days of riding thus far, just shy of 600km, with one mountain range crossed. Tomorrow I face Anarchist Mtn; off the top of my head I think the summit is about 1250m. While riding, it has only rained on me once and my rain gear performed superbly. The scenery has been fantastic; it was great to see familiar sights through the Fraser Valley and it's spectacular seeing what the #3 Crowsnest Highway has to offer. I've run into one group of cyclists from Quebec who are going across Canada, but they have an small camper van that carries their gear. We left Hope on the same day and they finally passed me on the descent into Princeton and have since left me in the dust! I've also run into many friendly people to chat with; last night a couple from Surrey camping next to me shared one of their burritos with me. So, in closing, everything has been fantastic so far.

Shayne called from Grand Forks, having covered 135km the previous day. It was raining in the morning when he woke up, it let up, and then started again, so he decided to stay put, rather than climb the next mountain pass in heavier rain gear.

I talked to Shayne this afternoon and he left me a message this morning. He did 100km today, and has now completed the first 1000km of the trip. The weather today has been beautiful: sun and a light breeze. He stayed in a Provincial park last night that was beautiful. He was going to push on to Moyie because a group of 20 cyclists heading to the east coast were going to be staying in the park there. So I think he hoped to meet up with them for the evening.

Sorry for the delay in updating here. The site was down and then I was racing out of town on the weekend. I heard from Shayne this afternoon at work. He has arrived at the Saskatchewan border. He has hoped to camp at the visitors centre (camped there last time in 2000) but since his last visit they have relandscaped the area with rocks and tiles, so not a good place to pitch a tent. But there is a new camp ground about 4K away. Yesterday he did 172 km, 70km of that had a tailwind (letting him average about 30kph). For about 40km there was a cross wind and then a headwind for 60km. He hopes to be in Swift Current tomorrow.

Called From Tompkins, cross wind and headwind, had done 60K and was going to go on to Swift Current.

Shayne called yesterday during a busy time at the office. I wrote down some info about where he was, but left it on my desk. He is taking highway 13 right now. I believe it was Thursday that he had the wind at his back and managed to cover 219 kilometers over the day. Weather has been decent.

Shayne here. I'm in Redvers, Saskatchewan about 40km from the Manitoba border. Sunshine, tailwind, flat. I've torn off 100km already and it's not even 11:00a yet. I should easily make Souris today. Weather continues to be great. Had to pack in the rain leaving Swift Current, but it stopped once I started riding, and have been dry since then. Highway #13 is FANTASTIC. Almost no traffic. The first couple days of scenery were incredible until it flattened out just before Weyburn. With one more day like today I just might make it to Winnipeg by tomorrow night! I took a rest day yesterday in Stoughton after riding 6 days, nearly 900km from Lethbridge. Besides, there was a 40+kph wind from the east. No sense trying to ride far in that! Camped with a couple cyclists in Swift Current. It took them only 13 days to get there from Victoria! They both had BOB trailers like mine and, get this, they were 50 and 60 years old! The difference being they were eating almost all their food at restaurants -- so travelling quite a bit lighter. And they only have two months available to do the cross-Canada trip, so they were hustling. Haven't seen any cyclists since I got on #13. That's all for now.

Heard from Shayne this morning at work. He had some bike trouble yesterday with his rear tread pulling away from his rim. It was causing some rear flats. He managed to get a lift into town with someone who called around looking for bike shops for him. He ended up at Home Hardware and purchased a tread there which he will ride for now and see how it holds up. He was afraid that he rear rim might have been a bit bent, but after taking the tread off and and looking at it, that doens't seem to be the case. This put him a little behind where he had hoped to be.

Shayne called from Holland this morning. He did 158 kms yesterday but didn't make it to the campground until 9:30pm. He will be in Winnipeg this evening and will take tomorrow off to get a bike tune up.

Shayne was taking a rest day today in Winnipeg. He took his bike in for a tune up and everything is ok. The campground he was staying at was on St. Annes Road (a strange thing because that is our street address in Toronto). When he went to the grocery store he parked his bike at the bike rack, and the only other bike there was a child's tricycle. He wondered if that person was also going across Canada. He will do about 100 miles tomorrow and aim for Falcon Lake which will bring him close to the Ontario border.

Shayne called this morning. He was in Mine Centre. He is aiming for Atikoken for this evening.

Shayne called on his way to Thunder Bay. The forest fires up north had not affect him at all. It has been hot and humid. A guy named Chuck Schmidt has been following the same route as him for some time. He managed to spend the night in someone's yard and got a meal and a shower.

Shayne called from Nipigon. Everything is well.

Shayne called from White River, home of the bear that became Winnie the Pooh. Saw a moose get hit by a big rig. A Policeman happened to come by, and he shot it. The terrain is flattening out.

Left a message from Pancake Bay. Met a husband and wife group on a tandem bike. Hills are the biggest he has seen since the Rockies.

Shayne called this morning from Manatoulin (sp?) Island. He left a message last night from Espanola. He had stopped at an Information Centre and chatted with the woman working there. By the time he made it to the campground, the people there knew who he was because this woman had called ahead, reserved and spot AND paid for it.

Shayne left a message from Owen Sound. Weather has been on and off sunny.

Shayne here. My legs felt a little sluggish on the hills this morning after spending two glorious days off at my cousin's, but after 50km things started to feel better. I'm in Port Hope camping the night on Ann's & Jeremy's yard. Ann works at the info centre in town and very kindly offered to let me pitch, cooked me a very delicious, filling supper, and is letting me access their internet! They have a very cute 10-month-old daughter Olivia, and a cat, Jasper, who has taken upon herself the duty to guard the baby! Tomorrow, hopefully, I'll make it to the Sandbanks Provincial Park in Prince Edward County. I also briefly met up with a man and a woman on a tandem, from Regina, who are also riding across country; they are making almost the exact same pace as I am so we expect to run into one another over the next few days.

Left a message from Kingston. He was right downtown. He has had a very strong tailwind and was feeling well rested and was going to keep going. Left another message that evening that was between Brockville and Cornwall. He had done 215km thanks to the tailwind.

Shayne called from just beyond montreal. He followed a route just North of Montreal. Lots of bike paths, sunny, and a tail wind. Is thinking he might end somewhere around Trois Rivieres.

Called from Port Neuf, about 60K east of Quebec City. He stayed on someone's lawn last night. Will stay in a Park this evening. He is about to hit the 6000km mark either today or tomorrow.

Shayne left a message from Trois-Pistol. He only did 80K and decided to stop. He feels find, but needs a mental break. So he is taking the rest of the day and all day tomorrow for rest. Back on the road Sunday.

Shayne here. I'm in Campbellton, New Brunswick and I'm wet!! It's rained every day since I left Quebec City, but today it's pouring! The ride thru Quebec was very pleasant until the paved shoulder ended, and then the traffic became quite a nuisance. But the scenery was fantastic. Trying to summon up to courage to go back out in the rain!

Shayne here again. I'm still in Campbellton but will have to hit the road tomorrow, regardless of weather. EC is calling for showers today, tonight, and tomorrow and a chance of showers on Friday (60%) and Saturday (40%). And finally on Sunday, a mix of sun and cloud. What happened to my warm, dry summer?! I'm staying at the McKenzie House B&B -- so my streak of 62 consecutive nights in the tent has ended -- but it sure is nice to dry out! The Matapedia Valley across the Gaspesie was quite fantastic -- the hills were so large, rolling, and overlapping it was if a child had drawn them. I looked at the numbers again yesterday and I still have enough time banked to attempt the Northern Pennisula of Newfoundland -- I'll make that decision when I get to the turn-off at Deer Lake! The two cyclists, Curtis and Lindsay, whom I met in Port Hope and then spent a fabulous morning riding into Prince Edward County are now ahead of me in Bouctouche NB. I received an email from them and they are also struggling with rain and headwinds and sound as worn down as me. But St. John's is just over the horizon now, rain be damned!

Shayne here, again! I'm not getting very far these days! Only 27km from Campbellton to Dalhousie -- in the rain again! I was climbing up a short but incredibly steep hill in Dalhousie and had just stopped to give my heart a break when a woman comes running down the hill and asks if I want to stop at her house to dry off! I couldn't say no! Just a fantastic family (Bob, June, their daughter Donna, and her daughter Victoria) who have welcomed me into their home. My tent is hanging to dry in their shed! They let me shower to get the sand and grit off! I have a load of laundry in the dryer! And most important to a cyclist, they fed me lunch -- a warm bowl of soup, bread, and blueberry pie for dessert! Fantastic! This inclimate rain is finally supposed to end tomorrow morning with the temperature actually approaching 30 on Saturday. Fingers crossed! And I've received another email from Curtis & Lindsay; they made it to Prince Edward Island (through weather that sounds even *more* unpleasant than what I've had) and are enjoying themselves, and wishing they had more time to spend on the island.

Shayne here one more time! Omigosh! Everything you hear about Maritime hospitality is true! I've been fed very well, two showers, a tour of town and the sights, and last night Donna brought me to a dinner with her friends! It has been just a terrific twenty-four hours! It's overcast today but only a 30% chance of showers and clearing this afternoon with a mix of sunshine for the next three days! So it's time to hit the road again, dry once more.

Did 80K, stopping in Miramichi. The previous night stayed with two other people (that I believe were related somehow to the other people he stayed with earlier), visited with their neighbours and stayed up late again.

Message heading out of Miramachi. Stayed with a very intersting man that had fought in WWII and survived a German camp. Had a great breakfast there. -- Shayne here, in Galloway NB just 11km from Bouctouche. I love the people of the Maritimes! Nowhere have I found so many friendly people offering so much hospitality. Roger and Marg have invitied me into their home for supper, a drive to la Dune de Bouctouche (a fabulous boardwalk on a 9 mile sandbar), the use of their internet, a bed to sleep in (a waterbed no less!), and breakfast tomorrow morning! I'm at a loss trying to express how grateful I am. It rained again this afternoon, but I managed to be under shelter for both showers. But, once again, the sun peaked out for a sunset, and yet again the weather forecast says tomorrow and the next few days will be better. If I have favourable winds I *might* make it to the island (PEI) by tomorrow night, otherwise I'll try and find a spot on the beach along the "warmest saltwater north of Virgina."

Shayne here. I'm on the island -- PEI, that is. Much to my delight I only had to wait twenty minutes to catch the shuttle bus over the fixed link, Confederation Bridge to anyone who isn't a local. It turns out my driver is the same one who drove Curtis & Lindsay over -- by the way, I just got an email saying they are in the middle of tackling the Cabot Trail. I have pitched my tent on the yard of a delightful woman here in Borden-Carleton just at the end of the bridge. Finally, a day of glorious weather! The first time after twelve straight days of rain! The sun was shining and I had a strong tailwind and finally got my mileage above 100km again. While I was pitching my tent, I suddenly was welcomed to the neighbourhood by Sam the cat. He instantly instructed me to start scratching him, then he discovered that crawling under my tent was the greatest thing in the world. I was actually able to see different parts of PEI all day from the mainland, and at low tide in the afternoon, I was actually able to see buildings. So tomorrow I head west and begin my circumnavigation of Prince Edward Island. Seven provinces down and three to go!

Shayne here. Green, red, and blue. These are the vibrant colours of Prince Edward Island. The tourist guide describes it as the "garden" province and it truly is. The first morning was spent riding through rolling farmland; oats, barley, wheat, hay fields, even a little corn, and of course potatoes. Then along the coast of the Northumerland Strait where fisherman are getting ready for lobster season which opens a week today. And then up the west coast looking out onto the expansive Gulf of St. Lawrence, the island coming to an abrupt end with tall red cliffs. And that was where I camped last night, perched on the edge -- but not too close to the edge ;) -- of a small cape, with water from my left to my right, as I watched a thunderstorm roll across the water from New Brunswick. By this morning the last of the clouds were slowly moving out and I continued up to the North Cape where the tides meet. And now I've started my eastward trip to East Point. Tonight I'm pitched on the lawn of a little farm near Ellerslie. Wonderful hospitality, of course. They took me on a little drive of Lennox Island and let me take a shower -- always a treat. And two adorable cats, Oscar and Zowie. Oscar took an immediate liking to me, flopped on the grass, and demanded his belly be scratched. Zowie, however, is a little shy. Yesterday, I came across a couple cyclists writing a book about cycling in the Maritimes, and completely by chance met up with them again this afternoon. The weather is supposed to be beautiful again tomorrow. With any luck, I'll get well beyond Cavendish and the Green Gables and the hordes of tourists before the long weekend begins.

Got a message from Shayne this morning. He was about 15km outside of Charlottetown. He is having some problems with his bike trailer (likely the bearing on the wheel). He is hoping he won't have to wait out the long weekend to get it looked at.

Shayne called from Nova Scotia. Took the ferry over yesterday. The ferry workers are off strike, but they are on a 30 day "contract" while they bargain. so in 30 days they may go on strike again. He stayed in Pictou last night.

Message when he arrived in Cape Breton. Sayed with a family in Antigonish. Called again from Cape Hood. Weather has been a bit better.

Just entered Cape Breton Highlands (National Park). About 10K to some mountain climbs: 455 meters and 355 meters - 12% grade. That is 3% more than any in BC. Might rain today.

Shayne here. Have I died and gone to cyclist heaven? You wouldn't believe where I'm sleeping tonight -- a bike shop! Let me back up a few days to get you up to speed with my situation. After nearly 8000km, my chain finally wore out -- started skipping -- my final day on Prince Edward Island. Rather than go out of my way to Charlottetown to have it fixed I called 411 and discovered there was a bike shop on my route in New Glasgow, Nova Scotia. I called them and they very kindly were willing to squeeze me into their schedule. While replacing my chain, rear cassette, and front chain rings they mentioned that my bottom bracket -- the bearing assembly that allows your pedals to rotate -- was starting to wear. Well... no more than two days later I'm 5km up French Mountain -- the first big climb in the Cape Breton Highlands -- when I started to hear metal grinding. It's foggy. It's raining. I'm essentially in the middle-of-nowhere. I climb the final 1.5km to the summit where there is an emergency shelter. I use the phone to call the warden who in turn calls the New Glasgow bike shop who in turn calls me back at the emergency phone. After a quick diagnosis, the bottom bracket is indeed dying. The good news: it's a self contained unit so I can just keep riding without worrying about damaging anything else. He also calls ahead to a shop in Sydney and lets them know I'm coming for repairs. So after a hellish amount of grinding and squealing, no doubt scaring any wildlife away in a five mile radius, I made it through the highlands; I need to get a t-shirt made that reads "I made it over the Cape Breton Highlands with a busted bottom bracket." So today was the final 90km to Sydney and the haven of a bike shop. The bottom bracket made a slow transition from squealing and grinding to silence but stiffer and then finally to completely loose with the whole pedal axle wobbling madly. But somehow I made it to the bike shop. They were some impressed with the amount of damage that I inflicted on that bottom bracket and they let me keep it as a souvenir. But they now have me fixed up even better than I was before. And so to top it off, Bill (the owner) offers to let me sleep the night in the shop! Fantastic! Unbelievable! Appreciation beyond words! So tomorrow I plan on catching the 9:00a ferry from North Sydney to Port-aux-Basques and reach province number ten after a six hour ferry ride; essentially a pleasant day off to let my knees recover. I have a pile of other amazing stories to tell, but you're going to have to wait until I type up my complete journals. :)

Shayne here. Just a quick note. Great weather. I'm on New World Island near Twillingate, north of Grand Falls-Windsor and Gander. Seven more days, under 900km to go.

Shayne here again. Well, I've finally seen a "real" part of Newfoundland. Yesterday I essentially kept making right turns onto every road I came across and visited almost every little community on the map. By the time I got to Twillingate, I found the town too big with too much traffic to cope with! I spent the night in Bayview and was invited in for breakfast with a fabulous couple. So I'll finish my jaunt around the southern part of New World Island and then head off towards Gander. Under 800km to go!

Shayne left two messages on the machine. I hope he calls back because i couldn't quite understand what he was saying. He was in Terra Nova yesterday, so I know the area he is in, but I can't find anything on the map that sounds close to what he is saying in the message. He mentioned yesterday he was having some flat problems. He was finding tiny staples in his tires.

Shayne called this morning just as he was leaving Green's harbour. He went a restaraunt there and ate really great pizza. He knocked on one door looking for some grass to pitch his tent. They turned him down. The second house agreed. Turned out to be the husband of the woman working at the restaraunt.

Shayne called from Signal Hill. It was foggy this morning and rained for a few hours, now just cloudy. He is on his way to the ferry, which leaves on Saturday.

We're in Truro. I got to Halifax (via bike) just as the remenants of a tropical storm rolled into town. That's it for me! I've been wet enough! While waiting for Terri to arrive on the train I arranged a minivan rental and a motel for the night. The rain is supposed to be finished later this afternoon, followed by six sunny days. So we're taking a casual drive through Nova Scotia in the general direction of the Confederation Bridge. Our plans haven't completely solidified yet, but we'd like to park the vehicle somewhere and then ride around and only pick the vehicle up once we're ready to go back to Halifax. I'm very happy to be dry and not riding on these narrow, bumpy Nova Scotian roads anymore. It's hard to imagine this time next week I'll be on the train home!

We are home. For me, it has been 120 days since I was last here. I am ready to sleep.